Under Its Spell

By: Harbor Channi-Tiwary Photographs by Ian Teh

What happens when you stumble upon a place that seems to have been missed by the world’s rapid commercialization? It occurs far too seldomly, I’m afraid, but my advice is that if you’re lucky enough to find yourself in such a rare locale, savor the chance to move at a slower pace, connect with the culture and succumb to the allure of nature. Located south of the Vietnam mainland, close to Cambodia, the pristine island of Phu Quoc was long a secret hideaway of locals and intrepid backpackers. Yet even as it finds itself becoming the darling of those who seek the most beautiful beaches on earth, Phu Quoc manages to retain its hidden-away innocence. Roughly 70 percent of the island is national park, and travelers may still find themselves strolling its unspoiled stretches of soft white sand with scarcely another human in sight. Despite its seclusion, the island is easy to access. In fact, it’s such a short flight from Ho Chi Minh City that there is barely time to settle in after takeoff before it is time to prepare for landing. Yet it’s still worth reserving a window seat. If the skies allow you a peek, the aerial view of the island, with its pearly beaches contrasting with deep green forest, will leave you spellbound.

No two travelers will have the same experience in Phu Quoc. There isn’t a standard bucket list of attractions to hit. Instead, you’ll find a variety of pleasures from which to pick and choose. Nature flexes its muscles: Lush jungle covers more than half the island, and colorful coral beckons below the clear waters. As is to be expected in food-obsessed Vietnam, the culinary culture here is deliciously vibrant. However, if all you want to do is lie on the sand and get lost in a book, there’s no better beach for it. The island is famous for its pepper, pearls, honey and fish sauce, each of which offers an excursion opportunity. Pepper farms are abundant in the countryside and range from small patches to entire fields. The crop is harvested during the high season (late October through March) and dried to make this precious spice. Did you know that Vietnam is the largest exporter of pepper in the world? And most of it comes from this tiny island. The pearly beads hang in bunches from the vines, waiting to be picked. Interestingly, the black pepper is made by drying green and red peppercorns, while the more expensive white pepper is made only from red ones. Another premium allure — of the wearable variety — are the pearls of Phu Quoc. A walk along the streets will leave you convinced that the gems are an obsession here, but for good reason. Phu Quoc’s pearl farms cultivate some of the most beautiful pearls in the world, which go on to be designed into stunning jewelry. Pearl farms also demonstrate the process of extracting a pearl from an oyster, which can take from three to seven years to create a single teardrop. The honey farm, isolated in the northern countryside, provides a safe, comforting environment for its bees. The tour proves educational, but more than that, it is refreshing to see the passion and purpose with which it is operated. If you’re anything like me, the smiles on the caretakers’ faces will linger with you as a reminder that joy is found in the simplest things. When it comes to the simple things, the island’s lush forests and water- falls provide ample opportunity to commune with nature at its most elemental. Try the Suoi Da Ban waterfall, just 10 minutes north of the main town of Duong Dong and a favorite of both locals and mainland tourists, where you will find families picnicking by the river and young children jumping into the flowing water from trees and a bridge. A gentle hike takes you farther inland, and as the crowds thin, the foliage opens up into the majestic waterfall. It makes a great half-day excursion for the whole family.

On an island as unspoiled as this one, the water is so unexpectedly clear you can see starfish on the seabed even when you wade in waist-deep. The calm ripples of emerald and sapphire are perfect for snorkeling and kayaking. A boat trip will take you to many of the coral-ringed islets, teeming with marine life. You feel like a silent observer, floating atop this parallel universe, mesmerized by the sea urchins, oysters and schools of fish in every color conceiv- able, and then some. A lunch of outrageously fresh seafood can be prepared on board the boat, and should you decide to try your hand at catching something yourself, you’ll find nothing more idyllic than bobbing on the boat, in the middle of the gulf, waiting for a tug on your fishing line. If it’s shopping that gives you a thrill, a relaxing day can be livened up with a visit to Duong Dong’s Dinh Cau night mar- ket, which runs from 7 to 11 p.m. each evening. Queue up with the locals at the numerous food stalls that line the path offering delicacies like Vietnamese pizza — grilled rice paper loaded with toppings — and rolled ice cream, a must try. You can also pick up artisan-made gifts or even edibles, such as black-sesame-coated peanuts and dark chocolate, to take home with you. When it comes to souvenirs, the local treasures are both practical and pleasurable. The Vietnamese conical hat, or nón lá, will keep the sun off your face and shoulders during your trip, and its distinctive style may find its way into your beach bag for good. Pick one up from a local shop or the night market. Of course, the island’s famed exports, from pepper to pearls, are the quint- essential takeaways. A bottle of fish sauce, the essential condiment of the region, would make a thoughtful gift for a discerning chef; just mind it’s securely packed to avoid any pungent spills in your suitcase! Speaking of food, Vietnamese cuisine enjoys an elevated stance on the world’s culinary stage. Food in Phu Quoc is just as delicious, though with an island spin. The thriving fishing industry here produces a bounty of seafood — from snails and oysters to squid and tiger prawns — which is most often simply prepared: grilled and served alongside sauce and lemon, an approach that allows the meat to sing. A few other dishes beg to be sampled. Banh mi, that addictive sandwich that marries a French baguette with veggies, spices and cold cuts, has begun its world domination, but did you know it also makes a stellar breakfast? Pho is probably the most beloved Vietnamese food, and no one does the flavorful soup — with its gorgeous broth, vermicelli noodles and copious fish sauce — better than Phu Quoc. And do try the coffee: It is notorious for converting coffee-eschewers into addicts, and one sip will tell you why. There are countless reasons to venture to this under-the-radar paradise. Go for the food, which is as friendly (on the palate) as the people. Go for the crystal water and powdery sand, beckoning you to linger longer. Go for the pearls, whose lustrous beauty is both timeless and right on trend, or the honey that will adorn your table for weeks to come. But most of all, go if your soul needs respite from the clamor of constant connectedness. Go where time stands still, and the only other sounds are those of the waves rolling onto the shore. Escape, even if just for a little while.